A famous treatise on early medieval French costuming is now webbed thanks to the indefatigable efforts of a group of SCA’ers. The book — or rather the doctoral dissertation — is Women’s Costume in French Texts of the Eleventh and Twelfth Centuries. It has been out of print and copyright for some time and nearly impossible to get. There are still some full-size pictures and captions to be added, but the definitions are complete. Don’t let the untranslated medieval French put you off. That text would be more complete for someone who reads old French, but the author’s explanations and conclusions are tremendously helpful the way they are. This is an invaluable resource. Here is an example:

As the mantel was the part most in evidence of a nobleman’s or noble lady’s costume, it is also the most costly and sumptuous garment, made of the richest materials, embroidered with gold thread, the lining, (la pene) of rare fur, sometimes two contrasting furs, bordered (orlé) with fur or bands set with precious stones, with jewelled plaques (tassel) on the shoulders, through which passed ribbons (ataches) of silk by means of which it could be tied and worn partly open. It is the garment of this period which offers to the poet the best means of indicating the wealth and importance of his hero or heroine. In his description of Briseide’s mantel in the Roman de Troie the poet gives full play to his erudition, his imagination, and his ideas of luxury. Her mantel is of rose and white cloth from India, woven or embroidered with figures of animals and flowers, cut in one piece, lined with scented fur, and with collar and border, spotted with dark blue and yellow, made of the skin of a rare animal from the river of Paradise ; the tassel formed by two rubies.

Note that this is a poetic description as the blue and  yellow “animal from Paradise” was probably not found in Paris markets. But certainly the fabrics and embellishments of the real thing were luxurious. A mantle also has the added advantage of not needing a lot of fabric, and might be an excellent way to use  that piece of expensive fabric that isn’t enough for a gown, but you just HAVE to make it into SOMETHING wonderful. A mantle is perfect for that.