Dress Diary, Blue Norman #2

Since today is just 2 weeks before 12th Night, of course this is the time to actually start sewing the garb. *rolls eyes at self*

The plan today is to cut out the bliaut pieces. A reminder that I’m using “bliaut” in its sense of a court gown that was probably made of silk. The side-laced versions existed and are termed “bliauts,” but so did a looser version of the gown without lacing. It is still relatively form-fitting.

I have cut out the pieces. I now remember why I vastly prefer to work with wool over silk. Silk is a slippery little devil! The pieces are quite simple: front and back panels with slightly rounded neckline, 2 full gores, 4 half-gores that will turn into seamed full gores, and 4 underarm gussets. I like full skirts so place gores front, back, and sides. I also set-in my sleeves, a technique that really belongs more to the 13th century than the 12th. Along with the gussets, I much prefer the more shaped fit that this cut gives. I will also be cutting in the main panel sides a bit at the waist, and using underarm gussets gives additional shaping. As I am not side lacing this dress won’t be painted on me, but it will be nicely fitted.

I made a mistake with the sleeves but they will turn out fine. I’m experimenting with cutting the shape of the maunch or bell sleeve and didn’t pattern it correctly, so ended up cutting straight sleeves instead. Straight sleeves appear to be a more common choice for England anyway, and I cut them long so they’ll bunch up at the wrist. I’ll experiment more with long sleeves in the next iteration of this dress type for Pentathlon.